This Just In: Jewelry Retail Sales Are Improving

Image Courtesy of Edahn Golan

Image Courtesy of Edahn Golan

Author: Edahn Golan

The most pressing fundamental issue for the global diamond industry today is the decline in consumer demand. Hopefully, this is changing, as US retail sales of fine jewelry have posted several consecutive rises recently, signaling a turn for the better.

In August of this year, fine jewelry sales increased 2.4% year-over-year, the fourth consecutive month of increases. Fine jewelry sales totaled an estimated $4.9 billion and overall jewelry and watch sales an estimated $5.5 billion.


This level of sales is significant in a number of ways: first, because it is already a clear trend. When sales increased year-over-year in May for the first time in five months, it might have been a fluke. When trade figures are first published, they are preliminary and tend to be later revised. However, unless there is a major revision that updates figures a few years back, these figures are final and very solid.

Another reason these figures are significant is the month-over-month trend. It is in sync with buying trends of past years showing that even if the figures are revised a little up or down, they are still in line with consumer behavior.

Read more at: Edahn Golan


China demand makes diamond too pricey


Source: The Economic Times

Author: Sutanuka Ghosal

KOLKATA: India’s expanding middle class may now have to spend more to own a piece of diamond-studded jewellery. Prices of smaller diamonds (10 cents and 6 cents) have gone up due to a surge in Chinese demand.

Vipul Shah, chairman, Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council, told ET: “Prices of polished small diamonds (10 cents and 6 cents) have gone up 5% as demand for these categories has risen in China, Hong Kong and the other Asia Pacific regions. But demand for larger diamonds, known as sawn diamonds, has been sluggish as the US and Europe, the major consumers, are not purchasing them in big volumes.

Prices of polished diamonds may go up further as demand is increasing in the Asia Pacific region and supplies are not enough to sustain this demand.” The annual Global Diamond Industry Report says global consumption will help the worldwide value of diamond sales surge from £10 billion in 2011 to £17 billion a year in the next seven years. This boom will be fuelled by the rising middle class in India and China.

Demand from these nations is expected to soon surpass the US consumption. Vijay Jain, CEO, Orra, said: “Gold has witnessed a dramatic rise in price. But diamond has not seen such a huge appreciation . Though there is volatility in diamond prices, it is not as significant as gold. Therefore , the price hike in diamond is more acceptable to the consumer as it has been a steady rise.”

Bachhraj Bamalwa, past chairman of All India Gem and Jewellery Trade Federation, said: “Jewellers will now try to offload older stocks of diamond-studded jewellery before they introduce jewellery with new prices. By that time, consumers will get to know that prices have gone up and they will get prepared to shell out more.” Vinod Hayagriv, MD of C Krishniah Chetty and Sons, said: “If demand comes down, prices of diamond will fall. But that is not going to happen in near future.”

Companies are now looking at introducing products that are affordable to customers and yet have the look of an original high-quality diamond. The Orra CEO said the company has launched the Aquila range of diamond studded jewellery that have the look and feel of a one-carat diamond (100 cents make a carat). “Such items are being bought by aspiring middle class youngsters.

The industry will have to come up with innovative products at a time when diamond prices are rising. This has happened in gold too. Most jewellers have come up with lightweight gold jewellery with a heavy look.”

H.Stern Opens Its Store in London



Author: Jeff Miller

RAPAPORT… H.Stern opened its first stand-alone jewelry boutique in the U.K. on Sloane Street in London. H.Stern is also located at Harrods in the fine jewelry room.

“We chose Sloane Street because it is the home of international brands, while being at the heart of a luxury residential community which maintains a local, friendly atmosphere,” said Roberto Stern, the president and creative director of H.Stern Jewelers.

The new H.Stern boutique showcases the brand’s  signature jewelry collections such as Stars (Stern means star in German and is H.Stern’s visual icon), Fluid Gold, Moonlight and Copernicus.

The space covers 156 square meters and incorporates what the retailer considered to be elegant curves for its furniture and interior design, to reveal a feminine silhouette of the “S” in the H.Stern logo. The curves also reflect the shapes featured in natural landscapes and are frequently used as a source of inspiration for the brand’s collections.

H.Stern’s  customer consultation areas throughout the boutique feature wood-finished linings, subtle lighting, fabric panels and decorative mirrors. Images arranged on the walls ease the customer into the H.Stern universe by depicting highlights of the collections’ creation processes, its workshops and creative partnerships, according to the retailer.

Jewelry Store Sales +12%, Best Dec. Performance Since 2007

Courtesy of RAPAPORT



U.S. jewelry store sales in December 2012 surged 11.8 percent year on year to $6.301 billion, which was the highest monthly total since $6.5 billion in December 2007. Taking into account that consumer price inflation (CPI) for jewelry fell 2.9 percent in December, the sales increase reflected even a stronger environment.

Annual jewelry store sales in the U.S. rose 5.7 percent year on year to $30.797 billion and that was the highest value since reaching $30.82 billion in 2007. But the industry has lost many retailers since that time, so surpassing the $30 billion mark for the first time in five years was a great achievement. Furthermore, while the CPI remained at a historically high level in 2012, it did continue to cool as the year progressed to record an average increase of only 1 percent.

In other industry trade news, U.S. jewelry exports in 2012 jumped 12.4 percent to $10.2 billion, while jewelry imports declined 1.9 percent to $12.1 billion. Exports of watches and clocks plunged 14 percent to $396 million, while imports were flat at $4.8 billion. As Rapaport News reported on February 12, the net diamond account in 2012, reflecting the value of polished and rough diamonds that stayed in the country, plunged 21 percent to $3.25 billion, led by a 23 percent drop in net polished imports. Net rough imports, however, were flat at $202 million.

Cultured by Luxury Jeweler, Black Pearls Became Chic

We publish courtesy of The Wall Street Journal

Author: Stephen Miller

Gemological impresario Salvador Assael elevated black pearls from curiosities to luxury jewels.

Mr. Assael, who died April 1 at age 88, moved easily in society circles, where he cut an elegant figure, praising the beauty of his pearls while bestowing small samples on lucky hostesses.

Although he dealt in all sorts of luxury jewelry, Mr. Assael was sometimes called “The Pearl King” for his near-monopoly on gumball-size black pearls he cultured on a private atoll on the Tuamotu Archipelago in French Polynesia.

“He created a market for them from zero to a well-known global desirable product, and that’s pretty rare,” said Thomas Moses, an executive at the Gemological Institute of America.

Black pearls—more of a dark green-grey according to some—are produced by black-lipped oysters native to the South Seas. They commanded premium prices: In 1992, an Assael string of 23 South Sea pearls in the range of 16-20 millimeters sold for $2.3 million at Sotheby’s in New York.

When Mr. Assael’s pearls first appeared in a window display at Harry Winston in New York in the mid-1970s, they caused a sensation.

Pearls were always white, Grace Kelly and Jackie Kennedy pearls,” said Stephen Bloom, author of “Tears of Mermaids,” about the global pearl trade. “The black pearl is saucy and naughty. It’s got this sense of pungent sexuality.”

But it formerly had been a rarity, hardly a jewel at all—and most black pearls were dyed, not natural. Only after Mr. Assael lobbied for it did the gemological institute produce a certification standard that buyers of high-price jewelry could depend on. Soon Mr. Assael was advertising them in fashion magazines with the slogan “A new gem is born.”

“Mr. Winston put them in his Fifth Avenue window with an outrageous price tag,” he said in a press release. “Mr. Winston sold them all!” Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany soon boarded the black-pearl bandwagon, and Mr. Assael made a fortune.

Mr. Assael was born into a family of Sephardic Jews who fled Italy prior to World War II to settle in Cuba, where they set up shop in the family jewelry business. After the revolution, they relocated to New York.

Mr. Assael’s father sold Swiss watches to American soldiers, and was left with a huge inventory at the end of the war. Salvador Assael took the watches to Japan, where he bartered them for pearls, then set himself up in the pearl-importing business. He became a big buyer of South Sea pearls that came in a of rainbow hues, including silver and pink and green.

He dabbled in other jewels as well and once paid $3 million for a pair of uncut Burmese rubies.

In the early 1970s, Mr. Assael teamed with a French businessman to start his pearl-farming business.

“You make money by being a producer, because when you produce you control the market,” Mr. Assael told Forbes in 1995. He founded what is said to be the only Sephardic synagogue in the South Seas at Papeete, Tahiti.

Mr. Assael’s competitors sometimes complained (mostly anonymously) of his aggressive business practices, but his famous customers appreciated his rare jewelry. Mr. Assael’s office walls were festooned with signed photos of him with presidents going back to Richard Nixon and other politicians, as well as socialites like Evelyn Lauder and Brooke Astor. Also on the wall was Elizabeth Taylor—who the never-shy Mr. Assael claimed had named her signature Black Pearls perfume after his preeminent product.



Plans by Damas to open 100 stores in India are on standby

The company is presently resolving its financial chaos

Courtesy of: Diamond World

The project of opening 200 retail outfits in India, by Damas, is on standby, and seems almost unlikely to materialise, following the company’s financial situation. As reported by the company, its latest financial statement for the six months to September last year, noted cash balance as Dh135m. The company yet has to reach a formal standstill regarding Dh4 billion it owes to over 20 banks, and a Dh367,000 fine imposed by the Dubai Financial Services Authority (DFSA), which make it almost unlikely for its Indian venture to shape up. The unauthorised transactions by the three Abdullah brothers, who are members of the company’s founding family, led to depletion of the company finances.

Damas and Indian retailer Gitanjali Group have a joint venture with Damas as a 51 percent stakeholder. Gitanjali was to initiate the first 30 Damas-branded stores in its next financial year, which will begin in April 2010, but it has not yet received the initial investment of US$32.9 million (Dh120.8m) from Damas, reports say. The stores were planned to be set up within the next three years and Damas had estimated that the new stores would have represented about 20 per cent of its business.

Reports say that following the financial chaos, the working capital of the company could well lead it to reducing its business. Tawhid Abdullah had earlier disclosed undertaking unauthorised transaction worth Dh600m and had stepped down from his post in the company. Along with his brothers, Tawfique and Tamjid, the three had entered into a formal agreement to repay the company in 18 months, else to return 350 million of their shares.

In addition, the DFSA had served record fines on Damas and the Abdullah brothers, and dissolved the company’s board of directors post a five-month investigation into the unauthorised transactions. A Dh2.57m fine was imposed on the company, which now has to pay Dh367,000 within 30 days, while the remainder fine has been suspended, if it meets the DFSA’s requirements.

The DFSA concluded that the Abdullah brothers had used the bank accounts of Damas for personal use. Amongst the transactions was a Dh294m loan was sanctioned to Dubai Ventures, a unit of Dubai Holding, and was converted into an investment which turned out to be worth only Dh73.5m. The loss led the company to realign and postpone its debt payments, reports add.